Gear with history: why do we love military surplus?

What connects a bushcrafter, a military enthusiast, and an everyday hiker? A shared appreciation for unique items with character and history. Military surplus isn’t just gear – it’s stories woven into every scuff and seam, proving their resilience over time. For years, surplus military equipment has sparked interest in collectors and practical users who value functionality, durability, and a touch of mystery.

At Helikon-Tex, we share this fascination and sentiment – after all, trading military surplus was one of the foundations of our business. But more on that later. First, let’s dive into the world of gear, which has more to tell than meets the eye.

From the battlefield to the bargain bin: the origins of surplus trading

Military surplus, known as “demobil” in Poland, has a rich history spanning over a century. The idea of reusing and trading military gear originated during the American Civil War in the 1860s. The U.S. government had to mass-produce uniforms and equipment for a large-scale military operation for the first time. After the war, a massive surplus of gear was left behind, which the government sold to civilians at discounted prices, giving birth to the military surplus industry.

However, it was Francis Bannerman who pioneered the surplus business. In 1865, he founded Bannerman’s Army & Navy Outfitters in New York, regarded as the first company dealing in used military equipment. His business grew so rapidly that he eventually purchased an island on the Hudson River to store his vast inventory, including clothing and cannons.

Subsequently, surplus trading significantly developed during the Great Depression of the 1930s. Many Americans turned to surplus stores for affordable, high-quality clothing. After World War II, the U.S. experienced a true boom in military surplus stores.

Original catalog from “Bannerman’s Army & Navy Outfitters,” source: icollector.com
Archival poster promoting military surplus gear in the U.S., source: reddit.com
Ruins of Francis Bannerman’s empire, source: artofmanliness.com

Military surplus in Poland: a history of armament, disarmament, and systemic change

The development of Poland’s military surplus was closely tied to the country’s turbulent history and its position during the Cold War. After World War II, Poland reduced military spending to focus on rebuilding the country. However, starting in 1949, military expenditures rose again due to escalating tensions, leading to a significant accumulation of military equipment.

During the communist era, Poland’s military was heavily influenced by the Soviet model. In 1955, Poland joined the Warsaw Pact, becoming the second-largest military power in the alliance. Substantial quantities of Soviet-style military equipment were amassed during this period.

After the fall of communism in 1989, Poland began restructuring and modernizing its armed forces. The country had to meet specific requirements to join NATO, including adopting modern, non-communist uniforms. The transformation of the 1990s led to a surplus of older equipment entering the civilian market. This process was further cemented when Poland joined NATO in 1991. With government approval, stores began appearing near military units, offering uniforms, jackets, trousers, and accessories.

Uniforms of the People’s Army of Poland (1943-1944), the Polish Army (1944-1952), and the Armed Forces of the Polish People’s Republic (1952-1989) at the Museum of the Army in Białystok. Source: visiton.pl

Surplus in the PRL era: a symbol of durability, style, and resourcefulness

Let’s step back to the challenging but nostalgically remembered days of the Polish People’s Republic (PRL) and the unique role military clothing played in the fashion of the time.

As Dorota Williams and Grzegorz Sołtysiak noted in their book Modny PRL, “The first creator of post-war fashion was Aunt UNRRA.”¹ This referred to aid packages sent to Poland from the U.S., which, besides food, included clothing that quickly made its way to bazaars. These included military shirts and green battle-dress jackets like the highly sought-after American M-43 jackets. This style gained even more popularity after Andrzej Wajda dressed the protagonist of the iconic film Ashes and Diamonds in it. For women, the dream items were blouses sewn from parachute silk, often in bright yellow or orange. The rare, “forbidden” material was offered by specialized Western companies, sometimes alongside shipments of coffee or razors.

M-43 jacket in a still from the film “Ashes and Diamonds”, directed by Andrzej Wajda

Hiding camouflage: strategic alterations

Wearing and obtaining military surplus was officially prohibited, and those caught in camouflage clothing faced confiscation and fines. To avoid detection, jackets, trousers, and other military clothing underwent extensive alterations: dyeing, removing epaulets and original buttons with insignia, modifying collars and cuffs, or adding patches and band logos in later years. One of the most straightforward finds was a tank crew jacket, which was already black.

The hunt for military clothing

Acquiring military clothing often required connections or a family member in the military. Others camped outside military units with vodka and cigarettes, hoping to trade with soldiers. Soldiers couldn’t return their uniforms incomplete, so they often stole jackets or trousers from their peers, leading to a chain of thefts.

As shown, vodka and cigarettes were distributed in strictly limited quantities (like many other goods during the PRL era), encouraging trading them for items such as military jackets. Source: potempski.com

A taste of the West and uncompromising quality

Military surplus was loved for its durable materials, solid craftsmanship, and many pockets. In stores, outdoor clothing and high-quality fabrics were unavailable, making military trousers the best option for mountain hikes – though some had to return from treks in their underwear if caught by authorities. In the 1980s, surplus jackets became a fashion statement at festivals like Jarocin, symbolizing rebellion and freedom. Military boots replaced unavailable Western punk-style footwear, and surplus bags like military satchels were in high demand.

Archival photos – Jarocin Festival, 1990s. Source: FB / Życie codzienne w III RP

Surplus as a political manifestation

In the 1980s, military clothing symbolized political resistance in Poland, especially among students, intellectuals, and young workers involved in the Solidarity movement. During martial law, opposition members often wore military-style trousers and boots. Iconic American M-65 jackets were sought after but expensive, while Polish field jackets, adorned with symbolic resistor pins, became a more affordable alternative.

Large military satchels were also significant, as they distinguished opposition members from the secret police (SB), who carried small, handheld bags. The large bags became a recognizable symbol of underground press couriers, so the underground Solidarity movement urged the public to carry satchels to confuse the authorities.

Left photo: electrical resistors
Right photo: military satchel from the PRL era, source: biwakowo.pl

Freedom for society and surplus

The Round Table talks, and Solidarity’s landslide victory in the partially free elections of 1989 marked the beginning of Poland’s transformation. In the 1990s, wearing surplus gear was no longer penalized, and surplus stores appeared near military units. A famous tent in Kołobrzeg offered unique finds, such as wool sailor’s jackets with golden buttons.

Solidarity marches through the streets of Warsaw, photo by Ch. Niedenthal, source: polityka.pl
The election campaign in Warsaw, spring 1989, photo by T. Gutry, source: tysol.pl

A new chapter for Helikon-Tex

In 1998, a small company founded by Grzegorz Mieszczak relocated to a larger facility near Wrocław. This enabled the business to expand by importing surplus and distributing it nationwide. Rapid growth led to the company’s own production of uniforms by 2001, setting the stage for Helikon-Tex to establish itself in the tactical and military gear industry.

Timeless gear

Interest in surplus remains strong in Poland. For some, it’s nostalgia; for others, it’s the desire to own something unique or indestructible. Online searches for surplus gear are common, and the Military Property Agency regularly holds auctions offering surplus items. One thing’s certain – if you love surplus, we have something in common.

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1. D. Williams, G. Sołtysiak, Modny PRL, Warszawa 2016 ↩︎